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1 Hair Cord Muslin
A plain weave cloth, woven with fine warp and weft and hair cords, 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. apart. Similar to ordinary hair-cords, but made with finer yarns. About 60 ends and 56 picks per inch, 60's T., 64's W. The cords vary from 30's to 40's singles.
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2 Muslin
This name is derived from the City of Mossoul, where the fabric was first made (Marco Polo), (see Mosolin). It is a very light, open plain weave cloth used for summer dresses and made in numerous qualities from super yarns, such as 52 ends and 60 picks per inch, 80's warp, 70's weft. Hair muslin has fine cord stripes. Crammed muslin is the same as hair muslin, but two single threads weave together to form cords. Shirting muslins are heavier, such as 90 ends and 88 picks per inch, 90's warp, 100's weft; 80 ends and 86 picks per inch, 80's warp, 100's weft. Cambric muslins are between the light muslins and shirting muslins, about 70 ends and 56 picks per inch, 60's warp, 80's weft. Paper muslins are made about this quality. All muslins are bleached, dyed or printed in a soft finish. Book muslin and Tarleton muslin are not muslins, but hard-finished plain cloths Muslins were not always plain, but had silk or even gold stripes woven in when made in Mossoul, but as cotton grew plentifully around the town and the women could spin yarns of great fineness, the cotton yarns gradually superseded silk.
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